Kerala’s advantageous position on the west cost of India was in full evidence tonight, as I witnessed the most beautiful sunset. I was honoured to be the only western person on the beach and enjoyed watching boys playing football, families splashing in the water and a fisherman spreading his nets.

Catching a fish using a weighted net appeared to be a complex art and after a few laborious attempts, a rich haul of two little fish (mullets) was delivered to the beach. My host, Joseph, bought them and in no time they were fried up and accompanied a delicious homemade fish curry. If my tastebuds are as satisfied as this on my first big meal in India, this should prove to be a gastronomic odyssey!